If you are looking for a quick and inexpensive craft project to make this holiday season, I think this one will suit your needs. You may make various of these snowman embellishments up in just one afternoon. All of the materials and furnishes that you need are effortlessly available for buy at your local craft supply store.

Materials Needed

wooden ice cream sundae spoons

scrap piece of fabric (scarf)

scrap piece of black crafting foam (hat)

small pea-sized ball orange Sculpey Clay

scrap of embroidery floss (hanging cord)

scissors

all-purpose quick-drying crafting glue

wooden toothpick

paint brush

white and black acrylic paint

water dish and paper towels

several sheets of newspaper

Note: Since you will be painting, place various sheets of newspaper down onto your work surface. Use the water bowl and paper towels to clean your paint brush when altering colors.

How To Make The Nose: Roll a little amount of orange Sculpey Clay amid your fingers until it measures the size of a green pea. Gently shape this ball into a triangular shaped cone measuring 1/4″ in length. Place nose on a baking sheet in a 200 degree oven and bake for approximately 10 minutes or according to package directions. Baking on low heat causes the clay to harden.

Step 1: Paint your wooden sundae spoon white. Once it has dried, flip it over and paint the back side. Depending on the brand of paint that you use, you might have to give it two coats of paint.

Step 2: Using the end of your paint brush, dot on 2 round circles to represent eyes. Using the end of the toothpick, dot on 3 little dots for his mouth and 3 little dots down his belly to represent black buttons. Flip the toothpick over and dip it into the white paint and add a dot to the center of each eye to add depth. Glue your clay carrot shaped nose onto his face.

Step 3: Draw a top hat shape onto a scrap piece of black craft foam and cut it out. Make a loop and tie a knot with a scrap piece of embroidery thread. Place a glob of glue onto the top of your sundae stick and lay the knotted end of your floss on top. Add another glob of glue and attach his black foam top hat.

Step 4: Cut a 1/4″ by 4″ piece from fabric and tie this fabric around his neck to make a scarf. If your ends are too long, trim them with scissors.

American Crafts This To That Dot Adhesive 2

The American Crafts This to That Dot Glue Runner is a permanent adhesive in a refillable dispenser. The package likewise includes two clean and easy-to-use adhesive refills. The translucent glue is perfective for keeping vellum and transparencies in place, or anything else you want to adhere. Great for use in straight lines or curves. The dot glue is permanent, archival safe, acid free, easy to use and clean.

American Crafts This To That Dot Adhesive 2 Picture

American Crafts This To That Dot Adhesive 2 Photo

American Crafts This To That Dot Adhesive 2 Picture

American Crafts This To That Dot Adhesive 2 Pic

American Crafts This To That Dot Adhesive 2 Photo

American Crafts This To That Dot Adhesive 2 Photo

Most of the young boys tend to like Thomas the Tank Engine, the little engine that does so much by himself or with the others. The older kids and adults think he’s just a cute little train, but the younger ones love him. The next time you have a party for the little ones, they may make their own Thomas the Tank Engine using just paper (preferably construction), scissors, glue, and crayon or markers.

After you print the template, the children must color the pieces according to the following color scheme:

o #1 red on the bottom and gray on top

o #2 blue

o #3 and #4 black

o #5 and #6 black on the inside and yellow on the rim

o #7 gray

After all pieces have been colored, cut them out. The children may need adult supervision for this and may be done prior to craft time. If you do cut them before coloring, place a roll of masking tape on the back and tape lightly to a newspaper or other paper surface.

You might want to consider doing one of the projects before you undertake to do one with various young kids so that they may see what it will look like when it is finished. The steps to completion are as follows:

o Glue #2 on top of #1

o Glue #3 on top of #2

o Glue #4 under #2

o Glue #5 and #6 on each side of #3

o Glue #7 on top of the everything

You may do this craft as share of a party or just as something for the children to do when they cannot be outside.

Cricut 2000932 All Sports Cartridge 2 Image

Cricut 2000932 All Sports Cartridge 2 Photo

Cricut 2000932 All Sports Cartridge 2 Photo

Cricut 2000932 All Sports Cartridge 2 Image

Cricut 2000932 All Sports Cartridge 2 Picture

Cricut 2000932 All Sports Cartridge 2 Photo

The use of orange subsections for craft intents is a centuries-old tradition. Their wondrous scent and natural aspect add warmth to any craft. You may make your own dried orange slices at home by following these directions and then use in your next craft project.

 

A dehydrator may work rather well for this. The simplest method to arid out an orange, or any fruit would be to work with a dehydrator. These are employed as a tool to keep feed edible by exhaustively drying it. You may arid out the orange slice and use it on a crafting project. Use a dehydrator on orange ¼” in length to arid them rapidly and without delay and to help preserve the finelooking orange color. It will arid once you follow the dehydrator directions. The whole drying routine for the slices ought to require in the range of 6 to 10 hours time. (Make sure your dehydrator is set to ‘fruit’ for best results.)

 

Make use of the oven. You may also use your oven to arid the orange. It’s the nearby alternate for a dehydrator if you don’t have one. Cut your oranges into quarter inch slices in order to obtain moisture from them. Make sure you don’t squish the orange. Just use a paper towel to blot up any orange juice. If you want to undertake this, sprinkle a little amount of cinnamon onto each orange prior to drying it, this will provide a nice amount of further and added aroma. Also don’t forget to place them in lemon juice to add color.

 

After you have finished preparing your orange slices, put them on the center rack of your oven. The orange will have a burnt side if you implement a baking sheet. When the orange slices have been arranged in the oven, fetch the oven up to 275 degrees, for a amount of time of an hour. Reduce the heat to 225 degrees for an further and added 120 minutes. Routinely check on the orange slices to make sure they are okay. They will arid rapidly and without delay with the following method. You may remove extra moisture which makes the drying procedure quicker by most times opening up the oven. Get the dried orange slices from your oven after 3 hours. While they may seem a little moist in the center, they will carry on drying as they cool down.

 

Capture the sun’s energy. If you live in a warm climate, consider yourself lucky! You may arid orange slices outside rather of in the oven. You only need an old screen from a window. Slice the oranges into quarter inch wedges and place them flat upon the screen. Use a paper towel to remove excess juice. Next, lift the screen above ground level to grant air for free air circulation. You need to be sure that your screen is located in a bright, sunny spot. You flip the oranges regarding once each hour, however, you might do it more or less depending on how sunny it is. It will take four to six hours to arid orange slices in this way.

Diyteeshirts Build Your Own 3 Color Screen

Everything you need to Go Multi-Color!except the wood and the Tee Shirts…

Build the 3-color press, take the Crash Course in Screen Printing, and Turn your Fans into Fan-addicts!

This package includes the know-how to get it done, the 3-Color EZ Press building tutorial, a set-up the press mini-course, and all the furnishes you need to do your project.

All you need is to get the T-shirts and in regards to $60 in furnishes from the Hardware store, and you could have a T-shirt Lollapalooza!

The Starter kit includes:

Crash Course in Screen Printing (CD/DVD Combo). This Screen Printing Walkthrough takes you each step of the way through your project with elaborated instructions and Videos.

3-Color EZ Press Build Tutorial (CD). Build the 3-color EZ Press with these elaborated instructions and Video. It likewise includes a Set-up the Press mini-course.

Screen Printer’s Hinge Clamps (3 sets) for building the 3-Color EZ Press.

Plastisol Ink x 5 pints Triangle Brand: 1 pint Phoenix White (especially good for printing dark fabrics), 1 pint Black, 1 pint Flag Red (also good for dark fabrics), 1 pint Lemon Yellow, 1 pint Royal Blue.

3 Screens: 20 x 24 Aluminum 155 mesh

3 Squeegees: 14″ 70 durometer

1 qt Saatichem Dual-Cure emulsion + diazo sensitizer

1 16″ scoop coater: for coating your screens with emulsion.

1 pack 10 Transparencies 12″ x 13″: Waterproof Inkjet.

1 roll 3″ Masking Tape

1 Can Spray Adhesive

1 qt Press Wash for cleaning up the plastisol when you’re done.

1 5 oz Bottle of Emulsion Remover Concentrate: sufficient to mix a full gallon.

1 Heat Gun: for drying the ink you print.

Most helpful customer reviews

4 of 6 people found the following review helpful.
Skip this ‘thing’!
By REDRAVEN
I could make this review long and deadly…so I will keep it short. I am an experienced screen printer of ALL phases in the industry. So in good conscious I have to ask YOU to BEWARE. Entry level screen printing systems are many and THIS is the OLDEST’ slowest and least accurate type I have come across. NO…I do not own one made by THIS company(in 2011)but I did have one identical to this method (in 1976!!!). The ‘Leaf’ press(as it is known)had some major weak points but the one the is the only real reason you need to not buy into it, is that is has NO micro registration capability. Now…if you think that PROS need micro tuning(and we do)with all the skills we have…do you think YOU(the novice)won’t need it? Yes you will. Sooner…not later. I would never even consider ANY press from any mfg that did not have Micro tuning. it IMO is a huge red flag to their lack of knowing anything about screen printing. Once YOU learn a few things(maybe a week or less after you buy a leaf press)you will wish you had not.
There ARE better systems for less money…but even if youi spend more….you and a good start in SP is worth it.

Next ‘red flag’: All those marketing such nonsense follow it up by showing and telling you that a heat gun is a good way to cure ink in tees. If you believe that, then I want to sell you an absolutely Awesome heater for your home(hold on a minute while I go grab a hot potato out of the micro wave for you!) Yes…heat guns ARE that crazy to use for SP. I could go on…but my time is worth more. So is yours.

but what do I know…I only have 30 years experience on/with anything and everything in screen printing. And screen printing reality is NOT this item.

See all 1 customer reviews…

Diyteeshirts Build Your Own 3 Color Screen Photo

Diyteeshirts Build Your Own 3 Color Screen Image

Diyteeshirts Build Your Own 3 Color Screen Picture

Diyteeshirts Build Your Own 3 Color Screen Pic

Diyteeshirts Build Your Own 3 Color Screen Image

Diyteeshirts Build Your Own 3 Color Screen Photo

If you have ever stitched a felt applique stocking then you surely know that it takes many, a heap of hours to cut out and stitch all those pieces. The outcome of all that work is a heirloom masterwork that will be cherished by it is owner. But how do they take care of it so that it will last for numerous Christmases?

First of all they will have to store it flat, wrapped in assorted layers of white tissue paper away from sunlight. We suggest designating a storage tube distinctively for Christmas stockings. Put extra tissue paper among each tissue wrapped stocking so that the beads will not be crushed.

According to Bucilla’s instructions that come with the kits, the stockings may be hand washed in cool water (86F) with mild dish washing liquid. Take care not to twist or wring when you are gently washing the stocking. Do not use beach or fine washables detergent. Dry flat. Do not tumble dry, and do not arid clean. I do not commend washing unless perfectly necessary.

If the stocking will be for a child, try to keep them from playing with it because synthetic felt has a tendency to pill. Of course they may hold it and use it as their particular stocking. Just try to keep them from using it as a hat daily of the month of December.

And at long last consider going one step further by sewing a lining for the stocking. It is in truth rather simple to do, and well worth the effort. A lining will add strength and a professional touch to the stocking. Choose a fabric like polyester satin to keep from adding too much bulk.

Bucilla Sports Santa Stocking Felt

Bucilla always has the most eminent quality, most brightly colored and originative designs for their extremely pleasing Christmas Applique Kits. This kit holds stamped felt, cotton floss, sequins and/or beads, needle, and trilingual instructions. Finished measurements are approximately 18″. Design: Sports Santa. Designer: Marie Stanziani. Made in USA.

Most helpful customer reviews

3 of 3 people found the following review helpful.
Felt Stocking Kit
By C. Chambers
Going to be a cute stocking when finished. LOTS of pieces to it. Just be prepared to do some work.

See all 1 customer reviews…

Bucilla Sports Santa Stocking Felt Picture

Bucilla Sports Santa Stocking Felt Pic

Bucilla Sports Santa Stocking Felt Pic

Bucilla Sports Santa Stocking Felt Image

Bucilla Sports Santa Stocking Felt Photo

Bucilla Sports Santa Stocking Felt Picture

There is not one thing like a good yarn, so the story goes! All jokes aside, learning any skill or craft takes time, time you must be devoting to finding out all in regards to it.

To learn knitting is no different. Just getting the hang of keeping both needles at once, or working with a cable needle, or just perfecting your knit stitch and purl stitch, may take a long time.

And that’s ok; not a single soul said you have to recognise it all immediately.

Along the way, however, it is fun to delve into all the secondary ideas and information. Knowing just a little bit with regards to yarn may go a long way!

This article will walk you through *6* yarn secrets; intrigues for even the “craftiest” of knitters.

Secret #1: Always recognise what you are knitting with! This may sound too simple to be true, but you would be surprised.

Most projects will be knit with “classic” yarns. These are worsted or sport weight, wool, and cotton. All the rest are plainly variations on a theme.

If you have a hankering for something fun fur or ribbon-y, eyelash, or wispy lace; save that thought until you recognise knitting well!!

Secret #2: When buying yarn, always buy by yardage, and not by weight. This is one I didn’t even know when introductory starting out!

Yarns, like people, are of dissimilar weights; they may vary all over the place. But, it is the length that is essential with each skein; it will have to be distinctly marked and if it is not, then ask for that information.

Secret #3: Always, always, buy sufficient yarn at one time, for your knitting project! Do not suppose to go back to the store two months from now and find the precise color yarn you purchased initially.

Yarns are dyed in lots, and when a yarn store runs out of a peculiar color, they will order it again; but, the dye lot will be dissimilar and the subtlety in the color will be very apparent; take my word for it!

So, if you want that pink sweater to look uniformly pink, just buy the yarn, all the yarn!

And check to see that all the “lot #’s” are the same. And, I will always buy that extra skein, and have never been disappointed.

Secret #4: Don’t know what to do with all those odd- balls? (And I’m not talking with regards to your relatives, now.)

Well, let’s see, you could knit a few placemats, baby washcloths, mittens, coasters, bookmarks, Christmas ornaments, sachets, doll clothes, knitted pins or imagination little handbags, buttons, flowers, tea cozies, table runners, fluffy wristbands (little girls love these!), a cat collar or dog sweater, a scarf or afghan jumble, and if you may think up anything else, knit away!

Secret #5: Get organized! This is one of my best- held secrets. Only, not anymore.

Record all of your knitting projects. A simple spreadsheet, or word processor, will do the trick.

Save your labels! This way, when you are finished with your knitting, you may input all the necessary selective information in order to knit it again, or pass it along to a fellow knitter!

There are even software programs available now, like Needle Trax, to help you keep all your knitting projects organized with simple point and click technology.

Secret #6: A true knitter, like any good craftster, always has too much of everything, and not sufficient space to hold it all!

Thank goodness for plastic, I always knew there was a intent for it.

Storage bins come in numerous varieties, so visit your local shops or even eBay for the best prices around.

Once you have sufficient storage bins available, then you may sort to your hearts’ content! And you will love sentiment so harmonious!

Harmony begets creative thinking each time; so with these *6* yarn secrets, there is no pardon anymore for not being your knitting best.

May your knitting basket always be full!

Copyright 2006 Alice Seidel

Kfi Baby Kids Rock Yarn

This is the perfective addition to your little rocker’s wardrobe. Easy to wear, fun and playful

Kfi Baby Kids Rock Yarn Pic

Kfi Baby Kids Rock Yarn Photo

Kfi Baby Kids Rock Yarn Photo

Kfi Baby Kids Rock Yarn Image

Kfi Baby Kids Rock Yarn Image

Kfi Baby Kids Rock Yarn Image

Make endearing felt flower pins from old outdated or tattered sweaters. You may use one of these flower pins closely anywhere. Pin one to your coat for a fresh look. Pin various to a sad looking fabric purse. Use them on hats and scarves. They are outstanding for home embellishing projects also. Put a row of them around the bottom of a bedroom lamp shade. Decorate pillows and throws. Add chenille stems, and put them in a vase.

What you will need:

• Two 100% wool sweaters in coordinating colors
• Lined notebook paper
• Pencil
• Scissors
• Needle
• Strong thread
• Straight pins
• 4 round objects in graduated sizes for patterns (approximate diameters are 1-5/8″, 1-5/16″, 15/16″, and 11/16″)
• Pin back

Step 1. Making the Patterns

The 4 round objects do not have to be the precise sizes given. Just make sure that the circles are decreasing in size. The objects employed for our patterns were 2 caps from dissimilar vitamin bottles, a quarter, and a dime.

Repeat the following instructions 1 time with each of the 4 round objects so that you have 4 flower patterns:

1. Lay the lined notebook paper on a table with the lines perpendicular to yourself
   (in case you don’t do not forget your geometry, you want the paper so that if the lines continued they would run right into your chest).
2. Place the object on the paper near the edge nearest to you, so that a line on the paper goes right through
   the middle of the object. Trace around the object creating your introductory circle.

3. Place same object above drawn circle with bottom of object just touching top of drawn circle. Trace around object.
4. Find area where your 2 drawn circles meet and mark a dot in the center.
5. Move object to right of 2 drawn circles with left edge touching dot and object centered amid 2 drawn circles.
   Trace around object.

6. Repeat above step on left side of drawn circles.
7. You must now have a flower with 4 petals.
8. Cut out the flower pattern along outside lines.

Step 2. Wet Felting the Wool

Sweaters that are 100% wool tend to work best. It is possible to get good results with a little less share of wool,

so if you already have a sweater, give it a try. Less than 70% wool most likely will not felt.

Wash sweaters in hot water with detergent and no fabric softener, and then arid in clothes dryer on medium to high heat. The sweaters will shrink and the wool fibers will become entangled, locking together so that when cut they do not ravel.

As a side note I’ve read before that wool will not felt in a front loading washer. Some say that an agitator from a top loader is necessary to cause the wool fibers to mat. But I have had success in getting the wool to felt in my front loader. The only thing I havn’t gotten to felt is cashmere.

Step 3. Making the Flower Pin

Pin patterns to felted wool. Use biggest and next to smallest patterns on primary wool color, and the other 2 patterns on second wool color. Cut around patterns.

Stack flowers from greatest to smallest. Holding the 4 pieces of felt tightly in your hand, push threaded and knotted needle from back side of biggest flower and carry on straight through center of all flowers. Pull thread very tight.

Keeping thread tight, make various stitches back and forth through flower centers ending at the back. Knot thread.

Sew the pin back to the back of the flower.

Poppies No Sew Fabric Applique Kit From

DAISY KINGDOM #6388 “POPPIES” NO SEW FABRIC APPLIQUE KIT. JUST IRON WITH FUSIBLE WEB AND FINISH WITH SLICK PAINT. FULL INSTRUCTIONS.

Poppies No Sew Fabric Applique Kit From Pic

Poppies No Sew Fabric Applique Kit From Photo

Poppies No Sew Fabric Applique Kit From Picture

Poppies No Sew Fabric Applique Kit From Pic

Poppies No Sew Fabric Applique Kit From Image

Poppies No Sew Fabric Applique Kit From Picture

When it comes to quilting, one of the easiest quilts to make is a Rag-Style Cotton Quilt. Unlike conventional quilting, these type of quilts are quilted as you make them and they have exposed outer seams which you snip after you are done sewing them to make it fringe. After laundering, it rags which leads to your quilts country charm.

For this queer quilt, I chose to work in established Amish colored system with solid black fabric along with solid colored fabric. All of the fabrics used are cotton as they rag and fray the best. You don’t want to use polyester or nylon-blend type of fabrics in these type of quilts.

Supplies Needed:

Approximately 7-8 Yards of Cotton Fabrics

2 Packages Warm and Natural Cotton Batting

Scissors

Fiskars ™ Rag Quilt Snipping Scissors

Sewing Machine and Basic Sewing Supplies

Rotary Cutter, Mat and Ruler

Seam Allowances: I employed a 3/4″ seam allowance while making this rag quilt.

Finished Throw Quilt Size: 15 rows by 19 rows. (In other words, I have 15 squares in my horizontal rows and 19 squares in my longitude rows).

Preparation: Wash and arid your fabrics before starting. If necessary, iron them if they become wrinkled.

Cutting Fabric: I cut my fabric down to 4″ sized squares using my rotary cutter. Try to make the squares an exact 4″ in size. You will need a total of 570 squares which will make 285 blocks. (2 fabric squares make up 1 block).

Cutting The Cotton Batting: You need your batting squares to be littler than your fabric squares, mine measure 3″ square. You will need one batting square for each fabric square so you need a total of 285 cotton batting squares.

Step 1: You need to make your fabric squares by layering a piece of cotton batting amongst to fabric squares. The right side of your fabric will be facing out and the batting will be inside. Use your sewing machine and sew an X through each square. You do this by going from the top left corner and down to the bottom right corner. Then flip your square and do the other side. It will have to resemble an X pattern on the center of your square. I leave 3/4″ of an inch un-sewn at each corner. You will do this for all 285 squares.

Step 2: Clear off a huge table or use a clean floor. Lay out all of your sewn fabric squares in a pattern or design that you like. For the pattern that I chose, I alternated among black and a colored square. (see photo)

Step 3: Using a 3/4″ seam allowance, so your squares together in horizontal rows.

Step 4: Using a 3/4″ seam allowance, sew all of your horizontal rows together. As your quilt increments in size, it becomes a little bit difficult to hold and pull through your sewing machine…if needed, work it in 3 segmentations and then sew the 3 sectionalizations together to make it more manageable.

Step 5: Once you have all your rows together, you will have a rectangular throw quilt. You need to load it back into your sewing machine and go around all 4 sides with a 3/4″ seam allowance. Finally…all your sewing is completed.

Finishing Your Throw Quilt: To finish your rag-style throw quilt, you need to snip all of your seams…you need to be VERY careful to not snip throw any of you sewn lines/seams. If you don’t own a pair of the Fiskars ™ rag quilt snippers, I highly commend that you get a pair as they are more comfortable on your hands than scissors. (however, you may use regular sharp fabric scissors too). This next snipping step for will take a long time, so sit down with a cup of coffee and put a movie on. Using snippers or scissors, you need to snip/clip all of your seams to make the fringe. I like to clip mine each 1/4″ and the closer together you clip them, the more your quilt will fray and rag when you launder it. You will do this on all of the seams and around the outer edges of your quilt.

Washing The Quilt: Now it is time to make it all raggedy. I wash and arid mine 2 finish cycles. Put your quilt into the washer with a little laundry detergent and a lot of fabric softener and wash it on the normal cycle. Once it is done, arid it in the dryer and then repeat the washing and drying again.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Your quilts will shed a ton of threads and lint for the duration of the washing and drying routine for the original few cycles. You need to clean your lint traps frequently, peculiarly while drying them. I set a timer and check my dryer lint trap each 10 minutes as I don’t want to catch anything on fire. After they have been laundered a few times, the shedding will stop.

The more you wash and arid your raggedy quilts, the softer they will become. Enjoy your new quilt!

Fiskars Softouch Scissors Left Right Picture

Fiskars Softouch Scissors Left Right Picture

Fiskars Softouch Scissors Left Right Pic

Fiskars Softouch Scissors Left Right Image

Fiskars Softouch Scissors Left Right Picture

Fiskars Softouch Scissors Left Right Photo

It seems like last week we were taking down our Christmas trees, and now winter is over and the warm weather is already upon us.

As our knitting thoughts turn to lighter patterns and more open-weave designs, the question that pops into my mind more than any other is.. just which yarn do I use for these summer patterns? So often I see some dissimilar types of yarn in those terrifi knitting magazines and newer books, so, just which ones are the best for summer knitting?

After knitting with some dissimilar types of yarns, over the years, I may commend a great deal of fibers which unquestionably fit the bill, much more so than others, when it comes to knitting anything you might wear or use in the warmer weather.

And remember, with the warm weather come particular occasions such as weddings, proms, even graduations, as well as outdoor events where you go from day into evening. In the most sultry night there is not one thing like a finelooking shawl or distinguishable shrug or afghan which not only protects but looks finelooking as well.

The primary type of yarn, which is closely a “given” is cotton yarn. Cotton is very easy to knit with and comes in so a lot of colors nowadays; most more spectacular brand names come in a cotton variety. In fact, numerous of the simple open-air shawls or shrugs look extremely pleasing when knitted in a cotton yarn. Don’t forget all the beauteous placemats and bath items you may likewise knit using cotton yarn.

Then, there are cotton blends. Examples of these yarns would be cotton and merino, or cotton and worsted weight yarn. Another great yarn mix is cotton and linen. Any type of summer pattern may be knitted with these yarns; I exceptionally like cool sweaters and loose vests for these yarns.

As always, worsted weight yarn is as standard as ever. Every name brand carries worsted weight; and the color selection is wonderful. Worsted weight may be used for anything and everything; vests, shawls, shells, sweaters, summer afghans and each kind of accessory, as well.

DK weight yarn is another great choice for summer projects. This type of yarn is very general with shawls and vests. This yarn is a light-worsted-weight yarn amidst worsted and sport yarn, and knits speedily for any project you may think up!

Buttery-soft, smooth to the touch silk yarns are always a huge hit for lighter knit patterns. They knit up into feathery creations, fun to wear close to your skin and with refined and tasteful curves and drape effects that give you the edge each time! Another yarn, soft as silk, is bamboo yarn. It, too, comes in a assortment of colors and is a great summer yarn.

And, don’t forget the summer colors. That may be the most difficult thing of all; choosing amongst all those luscious shades and tints. Colors like ‘cotton candy’, ‘mint leaf’, ‘peaches and cream’, ‘sweet orchid’, ‘lemonade’, ‘breeze’, ‘popsicle’, and ‘white sparkle’ are just a very few of the versatile and irresistible yarns to knit with!

No matter which ones you choose, you just can’t lose! So, if you are like me, you will be out to the yarn store just as soon as you can!

Peaches Creme Worsted Cotton

This 4-ply yarn is a great basic for any project. Knit/Crochet dish cloth pattern included on inside label.

Recommended Knit Needle Size: US 7-9 (4.5- 5.5mm)

Crochet Hook: I- 9 (5.5 mm)

Gauge: 16 sts rows= 4” (10 cm)

Meterage/Yardage: 98 yds

Ball Weight: 2 oz.

Worsted Weight Plied Texture

Peaches Creme Worsted Cotton Photo

Peaches Creme Worsted Cotton Pic

Peaches Creme Worsted Cotton Photo

Peaches Creme Worsted Cotton Photo

Peaches Creme Worsted Cotton Pic

Peaches Creme Worsted Cotton Picture

After you’ve made single colored molded or container candles for a while, it’s fun to experiment with making multi-colored layered candles. Although the technique isn’t exceedingly difficult, there are a couple of points you need to pay attention to get the results you’re looking for. Here’s a good deal of candle making instructions for this type of candle to get you started.

You prepare and wick the mold or container as usual. That is, choose the proper size wick, position it ordinarily and coat the mold with mold release.

The “trick”, if there is one, is to pour the respective color waxes at the right temperature. If you pour the second color at too high a temperature it will melt the wax and the colors will bleed into each other. Sometimes you may be looking for that effect, but other times you may want a very clear demarcation among the dissimilar colors.

On the other hand, if you pour the further and added colors at too cold a temperature of the layers won’t cohere the right way and your finished candle will in essence be chunks of wax held together by the wick.

The other thing that you want to pay attention to is how cool the former layers are when you pour the next one. As you in all likelihood know, wax have a tendancy to shrink and pull away from the sides of the mold as it cools. If you wait too long to pour the next layer of color, the antecedently pour the wax may pull away from the side of the mold. If this has happened then the next color wax may see into that space and spoil the layered effect.

Because specific brands of wax and wax mixes have dissimilar characteristics, which are further affected by additives, it’s inconceivable to give utterly specific instructions. But I may give you a lot of general counsel that will act as a starting point. Experience will instruct you the rest of what you need to know.

By the way, in my book Home Candle Making Made Easy I repeatedly emphasized the importance of keeping notes when you’re making candles. This is a case in point. If you keep track of what wax blend you use, the additives, the melt temperature, the pour temperature each color and so on you’ll be competent to duplicate your results, whatsoever they are, in the future. This is peculiarly fun if you get a “happy accident” where a candle turns out wholly dissimilar than what you intended but is something that you liked. For example, perhaps you intended to have clear color separation but for the second color a little too hot, but decisive that you liked the effect. If you’ve held notes, you’ll be competent to duplicate the result in the future.

In general, you’ll pour the wax for multi–colored candles a little cooler than usual. For most paraffin wax blends, a temperature of 170 to 175° is a reasonable starting point.

Make each subsequent color pour regarding 3 to 5° cooler than the former one.

The other variable is how long you let one color cool before you pour the next one. You want to pour in the former color has formed a solid layer is still warm and has not yet started to pull away from the edge of the mold.

You probably have success with your introductory try but there is a little bit of trial and error involved. The good portion is, with candle making trial and error is fun.

If you want to see more standard instructions for candle making visit:

Little Ones Showcase Multi Color Art Tape

A set of two Art Tape is a simple and artistic tool to display art anyplace in the home. Kids may put their art up in their own room, in the kitchen, on the fridge, or anyplace without fear of damaging delicate surfaces. The art tape is colorful and share of the art also. Little One’s Showcase provides client service help at 1-877-347-6090 and their internetsite littleonesshowcase

Little Ones Showcase Multi Color Art Tape Pic

Little Ones Showcase Multi Color Art Tape Pic

Little Ones Showcase Multi Color Art Tape Photo

Little Ones Showcase Multi Color Art Tape Image

Little Ones Showcase Multi Color Art Tape Pic

Little Ones Showcase Multi Color Art Tape Photo

Patchwork fabric-covered gift boxes are an easy, lowcost way to dress up any gift package. They’re likewise great for storage. Total preparation and assemblage time for this project is approximately 2-3 hours, depending on the size of the shoe box.

Materials:

Shoe box, or any other little box with removable lid

Fabric scraps

Wonder Under or other fusible web*

Pinking shears

Iron, ironing board

Optional – buttons, raffia, etc.

*Fusible web is a fusible interfacing that allows you to bind two fabrics together or fabric to another surface by applying heat. It may be purchased in packages or by the yard wherever interfacing is sold.

Directions:

To assemble the fabric-covered gift box, basically you are going to be ironing fabric scraps onto a shoe box.

While assembling my box, I found it was posing no difficulty to iron the fusible web onto the fabric first, and then cut the fabric into the desired shapes. The web reinforced the fabric and the pinking shears cut through the fabric more cleanly.

Choose a piece of fabric and cut a piece of the fusible web to fit. With a warm iron, iron the web to the wrong side of the fabric, following the directions that came with the fusible web. Don’t remove paper backing yet. Next cut the fabric into desired shapes with the pinking shears. Regular sewing shears would work also, but the pinking shears give the fabric an edge that will not unravel as easily.

When cutting your shapes, cut some rectangular, numerous square, and galore triangular. The number and size of each are up to you, but you will find galore fit better than others along the edges and in the corners. Long rectangular pieces lay along the top edges better and reduce the number of pieces required to line the top.

Cut pieces out of various coordinating fabrics. After you cut your pieces out, get started ironing them to the box. Peel the paper off of the fusible web, lay the fabric with fusible web side down on the box and press with the iron. You may have to go over it a couple of times to get it to stick genuinely well.

I started with the top of the box and worked my way down. Fold a piece of fabric over the top edge of the box. Mine is folded over with regards to an inch. Iron the edge on the inside of the box first. Fold the piece to the outside of the box and press again. Continue overlapping pieces until the box is covered. Cover the lid of the box in the same way, starting with the bottom edge.

When you’re done look for little spots you missed, adding fabric pieces until the entire surface is covered. You can’t make any mistakes…it’s supposed to look like a patchwork quilt.

Look over the box for spots where the edges of the fabric are coming up and gently run the iron over them. Sometimes it will take a couple of times to get all the edges to lay down. If you later find a stubborn spot that just doesn’t want to stick, just dab a little glue on it and press down until it takes hold.

You may embellish your box with buttons, raffia bows, etc. I used a hot glue gun to glue a corrugated cardboard heart to the top, and then I glued a raffia bow to the heart.

Add a heap of tissue paper to the inside of the box, and it’s ready to add a gift. I placed in mine a little stack of handmade cards tied together with a piece of raffia tied into a bow. The box was a gift to a friend who likes to write pen pal letters.

You may also use these boxes for storage…for photos, letters, or whatsoever else you’d like to store in a finelooking box. These are great for using up fabric scraps you have laying around.

This fabric-covered box is very easy to make and makes a great supplement to any gift.

Photos of project:

http://www.crafty-moms.com/articles/091603a.shtml

June Tailor Quilters Storage Tissue

Acid-free tissue preserves and protects quilts heirloom costume and other fine cotton fabrics. Helps prevent fiber breakdown and discoloration in folded or creased areas. Instructions included.

June Tailor Quilters Storage Tissue Pic

June Tailor Quilters Storage Tissue Photo

June Tailor Quilters Storage Tissue Photo

June Tailor Quilters Storage Tissue Pic

June Tailor Quilters Storage Tissue Image

June Tailor Quilters Storage Tissue Pic